How the protests of 1999 led to a political awakening in Little Saigon

At the end of the Vietnam War in 1975, nearly 20,000 refugees were brought to Southern California’s Camp Pendleton. Many resettled a little ways up the coast in northern Orange County, forming what would become the largest Vietnamese enclave in the United States. Little Saigon, straddling Westminster and Garden Grove, was a place of hope and reinvention.…

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The ‘scar tissue’ of Los Angeles and San Francisco neighborhoods

Viewed from the sky, strange cleavages appear along the urban fabric of Los Angeles and San Francisco, like the image above, of a former Southern Pacific rail line arching through the Mission District in San Francisco. (See in Google Maps. More on this route: Nesssoftware.com) They’re the result of long-lost rail lines, a sort of architectural…

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San Francisco submerged

The poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti once likened San Francisco to a place that “drifts anchorless upon the ocean.” The metaphor comes to life with the city’s signature fog, which pours over the hills in slow-motion waves of white. On the ground, the experience can be dreary, “like living inside a great gray pearl,” as Herb Caen…

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Dave Brubeck’s fight against segregation

Dave Brubeck, born in the Bay Area in 1920, was a wildly popular jazz pianist in the 1950s and 60s, best known for his jaunty, oddly-metered song “Take Five,” included on the first jazz album to ever sell a million copies. Brubeck, a white man, recognized that his success stood in contrast to that of…

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‘A gallows trap’: the Thanksgiving Day football massacre

In 1900, San Francisco witnessed the deadliest spectator disaster in the history of American sports. The Cal and Stanford football clubs had the 10th meeting of their storied rivalry on Thanksgiving Day, Nov. 29, at San Francisco’s old Recreation Park, drawing roughly 19,000 fans. Unable to get inside, hundreds of boys and men clambered atop…

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John Denver’s California memorial

Colorado’s greatest champion is memorialized on a rocky shore at Monterey Bay. John Denver became a folk music hero in the early 1970s with earnest songs about the pleasures of nature at a time of war and rising cynicism. He lived for much of his life in Colorado, a state whose soaring wilderness became a theme in…

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The Hawaiian princes who brought surfing to California

In the summer of 1885, three Hawaiian princes, on break from their studies at a Bay Area military school, paddled into the ocean off Santa Cruz on 17-foot redwood planks. The strange exercise was recounted in the pages of the Santa Cruz Daily Surf: “The young Hawaiian princes were in the water, enjoying it hugely…

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Cary Grant’s experiments with LSD

Cary Grant, a leading man of Hollywood’s Golden Age, dropped LSD more than 100 times in his later years. The sessions were conducted under a therapist’s care at a time when a group of Los Angeles psychiatrists became convinced that the drug was a tool that could change lives. Grant endured an appalling childhood. His…

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The legend of Costco’s $1.50 hot-dog-and-soda combo

Costco’s hot-dog-and-soda combo has been priced at $1.50 since 1984. Years ago, the company’s then-president, Craig Jelinek, complained to cofounder and CEO Jim Sinegal that the deal was a money loser. Sinegal nodded. “If you raise [the price of] the effing hot dog,” he said, “I will kill you. Figure it out.” The West Coast superstore…

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Icer Air: snowballs and snowboards in 80-degree San Francisco weather

In San Francisco, it wasn’t so long ago that studios rented for $1,000 a month, friends hugged one another without worry of disease, and snowboarders flew through the air on Fillmore Street. On Sept. 29, 2005, thousands of people in shorts and t-shirts gathered to see professional skiers and snowboarders ride on trucked-in snow down one…

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How a miserable man led to the creation of Silicon Valley

Silicon Valley began with a bad boss. In 1956, the physicist William Shockley opened Shockley Semiconductor in Mountain View, recruiting some of the brightest young engineering minds. Shockley was a brilliant inventor and winner of the Nobel Prize in physics. He was also, by many accounts, a lout. Before long, a core group of lab…

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